Highlights: London Fashion Week F/W 2024

Written by Amiya B

 

London Fashion Week featured some of the best designers showcasing their fall/winter collections over five days, from February 16th to 20th. Despite any local bias, we can confidently say that LFW always delivers fresh and fabulous designs crafted with care. The collections featured fringes and faux fur as a common thread, providing fashion inspiration we didn't know we needed. Some designers created conceptual collections that were a notch above the rest, with a few labels taking storytelling to the next level. Without further ado, here are our highlights from LFW 2024.

 

1. Huishan Zhang

Huishan Zhang boasts of emotions being woven into clothes and if his fall/winter collection doesn’t convince you of the same, we don’t know what will. Inspired by Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman’s salacious romantic entanglement that sent a domino of whispers across the globe, Zhang created this collection with love on the brain. The playful mix of textures alongside the bold eyes and slicked-back hairdos was unexpected yet impressive - oh so very Zhang.

 

2. Tolu Coker

One of our favourite shows from LFW has to be Tolu Coker’s phenomenal collection titled ‘Broken English’. Authentic storytelling can be hard to come by but Coker surpassed expectations from the set to the apparel, the design was in the details. The British-Nigerian designer paid homage to Ghanaian street hawker culture with the exhibition transporting you to a world that is all too familiar to her. We will certainly be keeping an eye out for Coker’s next display of genius.

 

3. 16Arlington

Marco Capaldo’s creative direction is the magic behind 16Arlington’s most recent collection. Influenced by the 2019 exhibition My Head is a Haunted House by Charlie Fox, Capaldo proclaims that darkness can sometimes have more depth than light. ‘Falling in love with the beauty of the monstrous’ played a key role in bringing Capaldo’s vision to life.

 

4. Harris Reed

Intricate, glamorous and stunning - Harris Reed stole the show at this season’s London Fashion Week. Aptly on display among the art at Tate Britain, Reed’s fall/winter line is as regal as it is chic. Maximalist silhouettes and beautiful prints laced the designer’s collection of art in the form of apparel. We would love to pick a favourite look but it’s proving to be impossible.

 

5. Preen

From stripped-down shaping to voluminous layering of fabric, Preen’s latest line was a glorious culmination of varied styles and silhouettes. However, the label somehow managed to maintain a sense of coherence from start to finish. One thing is for certain, Preen’s dynamic designer duo Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi dressed their models to impress. A modern-vintage mishmash of gorgeousness set against the river thames, Preen did not come to play.

 

6. ROKSANDA

We’ve noticed a pattern of monochrome displayed across many of the recent shows across fashion week and while we love a B&W moment, we were beyond ecstatic to see bright hues painted across Roksanda’s fabrics. The runway witnessed the juxtaposition of flowy versus fitted fashion. One of the designs was even fashioned off the runway prior to the show by Zendaya - need we say more?

 

7. Molly Goddard

Molly Goddard’s additions to London Fashion Week were bright and bouncy. With the coquette trend and balletcore returning to the world of fashion, we can only wonder if tulle is staging a comeback. And if your vision is tulle done right, Goddard will undoubtedly make it onto your mood board. The contours of this collection became the starting point and in turn the base of the entire line of apparel - silhouettes clearly being the focal point of the season.

 

8. ERDEM

Fashion in the form of theatre - that was the theme of ERDEM’s 2024 exhibition. Designer Erdem Moralıoğlu based this collection off of Maria Callas’ career-defining performance of Medea. As is life, so is art and this collection is art that we can only hope to embody in this lifetime.

 

9. David Koma

Influenced by the German dancer Pina Bausch and Spanish action artist Candela Capitán, David Koma’s line for LFW’s fall/winter season was worthy of an ovation. Everything from the feathered accessorising to the pointed and sometimes metal-tipped shoes was chicness personified. Koma gave us slinky, sultry and female.

 

10. Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha’s fall/winter exhibition claimed to experiment with preserved garments and explore the mourning dress of the late Queen Victoria. Bedazzled bustiers, bows and ballooned silhouettes were a notable theme throughout Rocha’s line. Also taking to the catwalk were indistinguishable stuffed animals meant to playfully accessorise Rocha’s collection.

 

11. Richard Quinn

Richard Quinn’s display of apparel for this year’s London Fashion Week was a crowd-pleasing masterpiece. Old Hollywood fabulousness coupled with vintage mystique, Quinn’s artistry is the perfect example of respecting the past while bringing in the future. Keep an eye out for the fashionable underdog of the collection - the chic beaded pantsuit with the dramatic ruffled collar.

 

12. Emilia Wickstead

Emilia Wickstead’s Metropolitan Essence collection showcased the best of the designer’s abilities. An ode to the iconic Garry Winogrand’s street photography of NYC in the 1960s and 70s, Wickstead’s collection claims to stylise the ‘coexistence of diverse communities who come together to form an eccentric, melting pot of colourful style’. Take note of the show-stopping skirts brown and sequinned, leather-washed blue and delicately creped.

 

13. JW Anderson

Irish designer Jonathan Anderson created a collection fit for London Fashion Week. Drawing from British influences, Anderson played with the concept of comfort while redesigning the classic jumper JW Anderson style. The ballooning silhouette of the mini sweater dress and the brightly floral belted garland skirts will be on our minds for a while.

 

14. Eudon Choi

London-based Korean designer Eudon Choi mastered the art of subtle style in his latest designs for LFW 2024. The eponymous label’s fall/winter collection fashioned structured jackets, classic coats and monochromatic ensembles boasting craftsmanship of the highest order. Elegantly sensible off the ramp, we can see this collection taking to the fashionable streets of London.

 

15. Marques ’ Almeida

Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida made their glorious and much-awaited return to London Fashion Week and it’s almost like they never left. With clothes skillfully designed using upcycled materials from their atelier, the brand has always prioritised sustainability and has never compromised on style. The label’s new collection is as lively as ever and is true to the tenets that the designer duo stand by.

 

16. DI PETSA

Dimitra Petsa has pulled on the strings of her Greek heritage to give us a beautifully created line of apparel with traces of the designer’s everlasting love of the wet look. In true DI PETSA style, this collection continues to project Petsa’s exploration into the concept of eco-femininity as she continues to push the boundaries of fashion and feminism.

 

17. Burberry

Saving the most sought-after label for our final look back at LFW 2024, Burberry is British fashion at its finest. If the label’s reputation for phenomenal designs weren’t enough to cement the brand’s iconic heritage, this year’s collection will be enough to have anyone in their right fashion mind fiending for Burberry. Here’s to Daniel Lee for bringing back the essence of Burberry and giving us a show that will be spoken about for years to come.

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Highlights: Milan Fashion Week F/W 2024

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Highlights: New York Fashion Week F/W 2024